Las Negras

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Our new location is a little hacienda, three kilometers from the small coastal fishing village of Las Negras on the Cabo de Gata Peninsula (that section of coast is also called the ‘Ruta de los Pirates’). This arid, sparsely populated southeast corner of Spain is the driest place in Europe and feels like the mid southwest (many western movies are filmed here). It is surrounded by range after range of barren mountains with many varieties of blooming cactus, deserted beaches with sapphire Mediterranean water lapping its shores and stunning rock formations. The hiking has been absolutely wonderful!

Our front porch
Back yard

The 14 kilometer trail (unreachable by road) across the range from Las Negras to Agua Amarga was rated by Lonely Planet as one of the best in Spain, but the 28 kilometer return trip was too grueling for las dos abuelas (the two grandmothers), so Sabrina devised a plan. Jen and I would start from here, she and Ben would drive the 62 kilometers around the range to the other end and start from there. We would meet on the trail, transfer the car keys, then Jen and I would drive home from Agua Amarga. That way we could all do the hike. Sabrina uploaded, downloaded and reloaded navigation apps and maps on my phone, including their zoleo (a satellite system where you can send a pinned location or an SOS) and a crash course in operating all the technology (my brain was sparking and in danger of short circuiting). But since none of us have a Spanish SIM card or internet, it was important to stay on trail so we didn’t risk missing each other.

Jen

We passed through San Pedro, an isolated (reachable only by foot) tiny hippie dippie community of cobbled together shelters from reclaimed castle ruins (built in the 1570’s to fend off pirate attacks), tents, and a couple of roughly built structures. It’s been occupied since the 1960’s by people living an alternate lifestyle and while it was interesting, my eyes were mostly glued to the trail app on my phone making sure we didn’t get lost in the maze of trails and end up in some occupied cave with ‘our’ trail lost forever. Jen said, “I could see me living here during my hippie days”. I said, “I could see me living here now”. But I couldn’t, I’d miss my grandkids too much. And who would grow my blueberries.

Looking down on the tiny community of San Pedro. You can see a shelter in the forefront of the picture
You can see a shelter on the right side of the castle
Meeting up on the trail

It was a great success and so we did it again, with Ben and Jen going one way, and me and Sabrina going the other way for another wonderful hike.

An otherworldly landscape

10 responses »

    • Ya, it was very cool! They had little gardens and were pretty disconnected from modern life. Except for all the solar panels.
      And the scenery has been beyond words beautiful.

      Sent from my iPhone

  1. Arlene – Your pictures & commentary are AMAZING.  Thanks for sharing
    your journey with us stuck back here in the SNOW SNOW & more SNOW. 
    Enjoy & stay safe.

    S. Diane Pennett
    Investment Representative
    Mutual Funds offered through
    Quadrus Investment Services Ltd.
    Phone: 613-267-6787
    Cel: 613-267-0641
    Fax: 1-888-688-3136
    898 Ennis Road
    Balderson, Ontario, K0G 1A0

    • Thank you so much for your kind words Diane and for reading along! I love sharing the journey. ❤️ ( I heard about all the snow snow and more snow! Yikes! )
      Sent from my iPhone

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